Well, it appears that I've reached the end of my two month Thai extravaganza. My funds are at an end (seriously, I have like, $25 in the bank!) so I must hop on a plane tomorrow night and fly forcefully back to Seattle...if only I were disgustingly wealthy...
So many amazing things have happened in the last 56 days that I'm at a loss as how to adequately describe my experience. Many adjectives spring to mind; lush, relaxing, stressful, hectic, surreal, hopeful, singular. I just hope I can take all that I've seen and done and apply it to my life back home.
I return with cautious optimism about my life and all the options that are open to me. I finally truly realize that if I really want something, it's within my power to have. Six months ago I never DREAMED that I'd be exploring ancient temples, bungee jumping, scuba diving or elephant riding, but here I am. Now is the time.
I'll see you guys soon!
A few parting memories: Dancing to the Thai version of 'Kiss Me Deadly'; Swimming with sharks; My 'adopted' pet dog; Endless squished frogs on the road; The THRILLING ladyboy shows; The infinite Sunday night market; Ferry rides for three cents; Dinners that stare you down; Waking and walking out my door into crystal clear waters; Riding in the backs of trucks; Enormous geckos; Squat toilets; 7-11; Countless bottles of water; And the thoroughly baffling Thai soap operas. | | |
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I have just arrived back in Ko Tao after spending 5 days in the Swedish Paradise of Ko Lanta. The resort I stayed at was a haven for Scandinavian 'Holiday Makers' as I've learned they're called, who lounged in the sun until turning a leathery brown. This resort was particularly exciting for me as it boasted a large pool, showcasing some truly tacky water-features. Observe: 
This resort also provided a complete beauty service where they offered to 'Scrape the Dry Skin' amongst other things. That, combined with the truly stellar menu which featured the rare delicacy 'France Fried', made it a destination not to be missed!
But all must good things must come to an end, and I made my way to Tao via the questionable night boat. More of a floating infirmary, I was glad when I finally reached my destination, though the life jacket on the pillow was a nice touch (who needs a mint anyways?)
And now I spend my last week and a half in Thailand relaxing in my hammock (again), bravely attempting to read 'War and Peace'. Wish me luck, I'll see you all soon.
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Need a lift?
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I'm now on Ko Phi Phi were the movie 'The Beach' was shot with Leonardo DiCaprio. It took two boat rides and one van to get here from Ko Tao, an 18 hour journey. The boats were nice but the van was a bit of a trial as the song 'Zombie' by The Cranberries was in a perpetual loop on the stereo system. I'm not sure if it was the song or something I ate, but soon after arriving in Ko Phi Phi I came down with a bad case of the SARS, or maybe it was E. Coli, in either case it was certainly NOT glamorous. Luckily it only lasted one day and I have fully recovered, though that freaking song keeps running through my head. This is the island: 
Ko Phi Phi is in a state of rebuilding because it was hit very hard my the 2004 tsunami, as such there are evacuation signs everywhere. Do you really get enough warning when a tsunami is about to hit to run 500m to the nearest safe point?
I have also done a little diving while here, saw a wreck, moray eels and a turtle! Tomorrow I'm off to Ko Lanta for some serious beach time. I can see why people like Ko Phi Phi with it's large cliffs and clear waters, unfortunately people like it a bit too much and so it is perpetually clogged by loud tourists and loud boats and loud music. Not exactly my scene.
I thought this was funny:
ZOMBEH, ZOMBEH, ZOMBEH, EH, EH, EH, OH, OH, OH
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I am now officially a certified Advanced Open Water Diver! I detect a very expensive hobby swimming my way...
I have spent the last week at Ban's Diving Resort learning dive theory, reading dive charts, watching MTV China, washing fins and shorties, reviewing NDLs, BCDs and RNTs, eating Thai food, American food and English Breakfast, riding in speedboats, neutralizing my buoyancy, and diving, diving, diving! I've seen angelfish, butterflyfish, batfish, boxfish, barracuda, cuttlefish, triggerfish, cleanerfish, moray eels, barrel sponges, stingrays and anemones.
My favorite place so far has been Chumphon Pinnacle, an 18 meter rock in 30 meter waters covered in all sorts of sea life. Both trips I've taken there have proved most exciting. It's such an amazing feeling to float in the middle of the sea, a giant rock wall on one side, and deep blue water on the other. The surface above looks like clouds. It really is like flying. AND, you see these:
Yes, this is a shark. Yikes! Tomorrow I start my two day Nitrox training so I can swim with the sharks longer. Everything should be fine...just so long as I don't cut myself...
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I have officially signed up for a SCUBA certification course! This means I can now literally 'sleep with the fishes'.
The noises of the island wake me at 7am every morning, I find that I rise and set with the sun. The shrill electric trill of thousands of cicadas, the strange croaking of geckos, the bark of over-friendly dogs and the crashing of the surf. I get out of my mosquito net shrouded bed and amble over to the local eatery where I've taken to feasting on bananas and porridge with coffee. Then it's straight into the water where I spend a large portion of the day. Now even when on land, my body sways with the imaginary surf. It's rather disorienting.
Yesterday I experienced my first tropical storm, well, actually a series of tropical storms. It had been cloudy all day when suddenly the wind kicked up and the rain began to fall in sheets. I was perched at Aow Leuk II restaurant which sits on the cliff side overlooking the bay, the best view in the house. The storm came in waves, three or four throughout the course of the night until it finally cleared this morning. A gecko the size of a small ferret took up shelter in my bathroom while a wet dog hunkered down on my porch.
Now I wait to explore the deeper mysteries of the reef, strapped to an awkward canister of air. If all goes well I'll have my advanced open-water certification by early March! Here's hoping I don't get the bends... | | |
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 This is my charming little bungalow on Ao Leuk bay in Ko Tao...I think I'll be here for a while. I'm finally in the beautiful south, tropical beaches, palm trees and swimming! I only have to walk about 30 meters to the water to experience some of the best snorkeling Ko Tao has to offer. Wake up, have breakfast, snorkel, sit in the sun, read a book. This is the life. On the 3 hour boat ride to this island I saw a flying fish...a fish that flies! The freakin' fish jumped out of the water, FLEW about 4 meters then jumped back in the water! THE GODDAMNED FISH FLEW! Now my life is complete. As internet is obscenely expensive on this island, it may be a while before you hear from me again. Not to worry, I will be drinking from my coconut, relaxing (maybe even SCUBA diving!) and reading more schlocky books than you can shake a palm frond at. The view from my porch.  | | |
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 Grasshopper.
I just got my 3rd Thai massage in 5 days, they're just so cheap and addictive. They push, pull, yank, snap and crack you in ways you didn't know were possible. I guess I needed it after walking nearly 5km through the Sunday Night Market in Chiang Mai, a whirling dervish of stalls, performers and food. Literally anything you could want (and a lot of things you wouldn't want) are set out for the buying. I refrained from purchasing merchandise but I did decide to be adventurous and try some local dishes. Please enjoy the enclosed photos.
Worm.
This weekend market fest was coming off the heels of my stay in the lap of luxury, namely, the home of my friends Lance and Howard. They live about 7km north of Chiang Mai in a little town called Mae Rim. They don't live in the city, but rather in a lush suburb which they rightly call the 'Bel Air' of Thailand. A two story open veranda, large pond, outdoor breakfast nook, and deluxe guest quarters are just a few of the amenities you will find on their delightful estate. I was treated to authentic Thai cuisine prepared from scratch by their cook, Phronom, as well as an hour long Thai foot massage by their neighbor. A foot massage house call! Their neighbors are mostly members of the royal family and they live just down the road from the Royal Princess's private garden. I think I might have been spoiled just a bit...
Now I'm preparing for my journey south. I leave tomorrow morning for Bangkok and then transfer to the night train to Chumphon, the jumping off point for Ko Tao. I couldn't have picked a more awkward time to go. Ko Phangan, the island nearest Ko Tao, is gearing up for it's monthly 'Full Moon Party' which is notorious for it's wild and woolly ways. Hopefully I'll avoid all the hubbub and find my nice quiet spot on the beach. Until next time...
COCKROACH!!!
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This is just one of many Thai signs that make me happy every day.
I am now in the Northern city of Chiang Mai, quite a bit nicer than Bangkok. I have spent the last week traveling the country by train, 3rd class (not so bad), and a 2nd class sleeper (I had to drink a large beer before boarding). Women walk up and down the aisles selling pop, crackers, beer, humbow and squid-on-a-stick. Children career up and down the car, and much nicer, faster, express trains career past the window. The thing about travel is you spend so much time TRAVELING.
Having now seen the cities of Ayutthaya, Lopburi, Phitsanulok and Sukhothai, I can proudly boast the most temples seen by anyone in a 72 hour period, EVER. Crumbling temples, glittering temples, temples infested with monkeys (that stole my bottle of water, goddammit!), temples in the jungle, temples on roundabouts, lottery ticket selling temples, temples under construction, temples under REconstruction and temples that don't even exist! On foot, on bike or by bus, I have seen all the temples I will ever want or need to see in my lifetime.
Between these fits of cultural overload, I have been slowly sampling Thailand's fine cuisine. This is what I ate the other day.
Yum!
But now it's time to get away from the cities, away from the women on stationary bikes in the middle of the park, away from the Thai pop videos that all start with sweet love and all end with unnecessarily gruesome car accidents. Time to take a trek! The city of Chiang Mai offers an overwhelming array of trek options. Bungee jumping, elephant riding, people watching, white water rafting, binge drinking, all for the price of a late night visit to Taco Bell. The mind boggles.
And when all is said and done, I can relax with a Thai massage, and a coconut, in a place that will hopefully be, well and truly, temple free.
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